Skip to main content

Kaleshwaram -> Chitrakote Falls (28.11.24)

On some days, we lie on our beds in the evening, energies depleted, but with a silly smile on our faces, for it was a day well spent.

We would be driving 275 km today, not too long a distance, yet google-ji was predicting 5.5 hrs. 90% of the run was on NH63, which was mostly very smooth, except perhaps 30 kms of so inside Maharashtra, which was quite bad. Yes my friends, while travelling from Telengana to Chhattisgarh, we passed through the bottom tail of Maharashtra! Naturally, Maha finds no interest in vehicular traffic between Telengana and Chhattisgarh, so to hell with maintaining the roads in that short stretch.

Most of the travel today was through forest areas, and really desolate forest areas, where for miles on end we met no other cars, nor people. As we entered Bastar in Chhattisgarh, the forests became deeper, but so did our fears, and we would start seeing scowling militants behind every thicket. Gradually as we approached Jagdalpur (the town near Chitrakote), some signs of habitation started and we unclenched in various places.


Sangam at Kaleshwaram (7.30 am)
We pushed off early today, pre-breakfast that is, but not without seeing two more seeable places in K. 

The tribeni sangam, where the rivers Godavari, Pranahita and Saraswati (which, being subterranean, cannot be seen) meet, is a holy place, often used by people around for pinda daan or final rites.


The other seeable was Shree Kaleshwara Muktishwara Swamy Devasthanam temple. It is a temple with two lingas on a pedestal - one Shiva (Muktishwara) and one Yama (Kaleshwara). Quite unique.
From the net 👆

Breakfast at Ankisa (9.00 am)
Breakfast is important. But Ankisa?

As soon as we had crossed the Godavari, which was just 5 km from our hotel, we had moved into Maharashtra, and remained there for a couple of hours till we crossed the Indravati, after which Chhattisgarh started. Horrible roads in the whole stretch, and the few Maharashtran towns we passed through were sad-looking, with not much facilities. Evidently, the state was not pouring resources to the bottom tail of its map. Ankisa was one such town where we stopped for a roadside breakfast, without even getting out of the car. The mother making dosas, the father deep frying bondas, and the son Rohit helping out everyone - till he pushes off to attend classes in his Technical College 25 kms away. We chatted with him for a couple of minutes. Good English too. Ankisa unimportant? Not while boys like Rohit are there.


Bastar forest (12.00 noon)
Today's drive was a model forest drive, miles and miles of saal trees, sunlight filtering through them, glinting off the windshield as we wound our way through. 70 km before Chitrakote, our gps kicked us off the dependable NH63 to the backroads of Bastar. The odd villager whom I honked at would look at me in surprise. Car? Here? Loaded two wheelers would sometimes go lumbering by. If we stopped and switched off the engine, the woody sounds in the windless trees would be muted, as if the whole forest was waiting breathlessly for something to happen. Bastar was beautiful. But a bit tense, I thought.


Dandami Resort at Chitrakote (1.30 pm)
We had booked our stay at a Chhattisgarh Tourism resort, quite old (20 years), sitting very near the falls. In fact, we could see the falls from our room, which was a major attraction for this place. Well spread-out, with lots of greenery, it was a good place to chill for half a day. We had a quick lunch, walked along some nature trails, and were ready to take a fall.


Chitrakote falls (3.00 pm)
The whole Bastar region has a number of waterfalls, but Chitrakote is perhaps the biggest. Granted that if we had come in Sep, we would have seen a deluge that was double the volume, Chitrakote was still very very impressive. We went to the viewpoint. Close up, C was roaring louder. We went down the steps to the river bed. C spread her watery skirt in full swirl. We got into a boat and went close to the cascade. C deafened us with noise and wet us thoroughly with spray. Shades of the Hornblower ride at the Niagara. In fact, Chitrakote IS called the Niagara of India.

A side benefit of C falls is that the river at the foot as it flows on, is only waist deep, without strong current and not slippery. It made for an ideal splash pool. Many adults became 5-year olds here. If you come here, pack your extra set of clothes for dipping in the clear waters of Indravati.


Back at the resort at 5.00 pm, we snuggled under the covers (it's getting chilly, folks) with tea and pakoras. We will have some decent non-spicy dinner at the resort itself, and retire gracefully.


Tomorrow, we travel to Bhawanipatna in Orissa.

Photo credits: Panna Rashmi Ray

Popular posts from this blog

Kolkata -> Cuttack (28.10.24)

Travel to the south involves transiting in Orissa, usually at Bhubaneswar. This time, we halted at Cuttack, just for some variety. This distance of 425 kms is done by pro drivers in 9 hours of no-break driving, but I was expecting to take longer. The usual breafast and lunch breaks add around 1.5 hours to the trip. My additional imponderable was the condition of the highways, given that Dana had spread her wings across Orissa just a couple of days earlier. A few videos of Balasore and Bhadrak bobbing up and down in the waters had not done much to boost my confidence. But I was impressed. No impact on roads up to Cuttack, a bit of flooded fields here and there, and (here I did a double take), very few speed cameras. Either the gale had blown them away, or, what is more likely, Orissa govt took them down to prevent that bunch of costly equipment bring scattered all over Jharkhand. Breakfast at Kolaghat (8.30 am) We left at 6.30 am and had breakfast at Kolaghat (H. Anand s...

Puducherry -> Pitchavaram -> Tharangambadi -> Vailankanni -> Thanjavur (6.11.24)

Now now, don't get your knickers in a twist! These are not the list in a memory game designed by Shashi Tharoor while campaigning at Thiruvanthapuram. These three stopovers had been suggested by a friend who had backpacked these areas, and I promise you, each one is a gem! Today's drive was 300 km, for which a straight run might take 6 hours. We managed to stretch it to 11 hours! We left Puducherry at 7.30 am, foregoing the free breakfast being offered by the hotel (for roadtrippers, that's a big sacrifice). By and large, we travelled down the coast till around 4 pm, then cut west to go to Tanjore (see map above). After Cuddalore, NH gave way to SH, then to simply H, but the quality of roads in TN continued to be very good. We saw a lot of road work going on, which meant lot of diversions for us, but the rate at which dual carriages are coming up in SHs is really impressive. Weather was sunny and hot throughout, probably because thunderstorms had been predicted....

Local at Vizag (30.10.24)

This was a day purely devoted to Vizag sightseeing, and the net threw up a number of options of beaches, museums and temples. We also found that the city was practically divided by a canal and places like the Dolphin Nose Lighthouse, Yarada beach etc were around an hour away, whereas we were staying in the Rishikonda/ RK Beach area. Simhachalam temple An hour away from our hotel, moving away from the seaside, this Vishnu temple (Narsimha avatar) is located on a small hill of 800m, architecturally beautiful and with a good view of the city. But like in most temples, there is a rule of no chappals and no cellphones. So I could not venture deep inside the campus as I need my chappals for my diabetic feet (health of sole is more important than health of soul). Panna sort of believes in 'I click therefore I was'. So we took an external gander, had some delicious medu vadas and coffee, and drove down the hill and onward to Dolphin Nose Lighthouse. ...