Thanjavur is a throbbing city, full of history, culture, and life in general. The region had changed hand many times and were ruled by giants - Rajaraja I of the Chola dynasty (1000 AD), Sevappa Nayak of Vijayanagara dynasty (1530 AD), Ekoji I of the Marathas (1674 AD), and the British (1855 AD). All of them did their bit for the kingdom, except perhaps the redcoats who simply changed the name to Tanjore and started playing cricket.
Our hotel was very close to two landmarks in the city (actually three landmarks if you count Krishna Bhavan, the go-to place for veg meals) - the Brihadeeshvara temple and the Tanjore Palace.
Brihadeeshwara temple
The Big Shiva temple, a UNESCO heritage site, should be on anyone's bucket list. Historically and architecturally, it takes the cake. Historically, it had been built by Rajaraja I around 1000 AD, but rebuilt and renovated by succeeding dynasties as well, so that it still continues as a living Shiva temple. Architecturally, it demands a place of respect - a Vimana or main tower 216 feet high yet not tilting even a full degree, 130,000 tonnes of granite quarried and transported for 60 km by elephants, the top monolithic block weighing 81 tonnes balancing precariously, the temple built by constructing a circular earthen ramp for the elephants to walk up on, the centre of the tower kept hollow to reduce load and improve stability, and the blocks made interlocking without any cement. And the quality of artwork - simply amazing!!
We had taken on a govt guide, which is always a good idea at historical places. Otherwise it feels like trying to understand a book from the table of contents.
Tanjore Palace of the Marathas
Although the palace was built by the Nayakas, continued usage happened only during Maratha times and the Bhonsle families clung on to the palace for some time even after Shivaji's reign.
The palace was not too impressive, however. Because of continuous renovations, many areas were off limits, and even the areas open to public lacked a coherence and a theme. It was as if they had put things together and named the hall 'Library', 'Natraj room' and so on. The places looked either too dilapidated or too new, if you get what I mean. The Darbar Hall was closed, which I thought would be an impressive exhibit. And we kept wondering whether the 'Bell Tower' actually had a bell. There was an AV show on Thanjavur which was perhaps the best takeaway from the visit.
We returned to Krishna Bhavan for a spot of lunch. I raised two fingers at the amma in maroon overalls and said in a clipped accent: "The usual". She nodded with hooded eyes and repaired to the kitchen for conveying precise instructions, because she knew jolly well that I'd sling it right back if the... er, thali... wasn't prepared just right.
The Big Temple at night
We had been told that dawn and dusk are two moments when the Brihadeeshwara temple looks amazing, as the sunlight hits the facades from the east and west respectively. However, we were out of luck. Both dawn and dusk were plagued by cloudy skies.
So we tried the next best thing - the temple lit up at night, which was also quite nice. We walked down just at sunset, with light still in the sky, and watched darkness float down like the sequinned black aanchal of a socialite at an open-air dinner party.
Additionally, 10th Nov is the birthday of Rajaraja I, and the city is preparing for a festival. Parks are being adorned with lights, and the temple premises are erecting a huge decorated shamiana where people can sit and listen to programs. The winter rains have been holding off, but seem to be starting now in spurts. Hope it doesn't rain on their parade here.
We Swiggied dinner to our hotel room today, depriving Krishna Bhavan from a 100% supply share, which is good purchase management, I am told.
Tomorrow we leave for Rameswaram.