Yesterday, we had travelled from TN to Kerala. Today's 150 km travel brought us from Kerala (Wayanad district) to Karnataka (Coorg district).
In the hills, nothing changes. They don't understand political boundaries, unless accompanied by geographical or climatic changes. Our road slipped effortlessly from Kerala to Karnataka without raising a rukkus, the countryside as beautiful as ever. When we left Wayanad, the paddy fields were shrouded in mist. Vision and heat increased with the sun till, by noon, we were wishing we wore thinner clothes. But as evening drew its shroud over Coorg, temperature dropped below 20 degC and we dug out our jackets when we went out for dinner.
So, let's see how the day went.
Iruppu waterfalls (10.00 am)
We left Wayanad at 8.15 am, after our homestay owner, Mr Chandran, had stuffed us with puris. A little after we had entered Karnataka at Kutta checkpost, we dropped off left onto a narrow road leading to this waterfall. From the parking lot, we were told that it was a one km walk, but it was a bit more, with a lot of stairs to be climbed, which took us almost half way up this 170 ft waterfall. The atmosphere was chilly, the woods dark and the roar of the falls close enough to be deafening. The more adventurous visitors were having a dip at the natural pools there. It was worth the visit.
Piyush's house at Madikeri (1.15 pm)
I was meeting Piyush, my IIMC batchmate and wingmate, after 37 years, but we took up the threads as if the loom had stopped only for a moment. Piyush retired two years ago and decided to settle in Madikeri only after taking a road trip of 10,000 kms from Delhi to down south, and evaluating many candidates for his precipitation! The spirit of a true researcher.
We went for lunch at 'Coorg Cuisine' as Panna had been specifically advised to try the 'pandi curry', which is a pork preparation, consumed with 'akki roti', which is made with rice flour. Panna declared the dish a grand success.
Gaddige Tombs (3.00 pm)
This peaceful garden high up in Madikeri houses three tombs of the Kodava clan, commissioned in 1805. The central tomb houses King Doddaveerarajendra and his wife, the second tomb the King's brother Lingarajendra and his wife, and the smallest tomb the royal priest Rudrappa. The benches near the boundary offer a stunning view of Madikeri city.
Coffee plantation visit (4.00 pm)
While driving from TN into Karnataka, and finally into Kerala, we had seen the tea gardens of Ooty give way to the paddy of low-lying Wayanad, which was again displaced by coffee plantations as we went uphill into Coorg district.
We drove out to the coffee plantation owned by Piyush's landlord, and had a chance to see the coffee plants up close, together with the black pepper creepers wrapping themselves around the bigger silver oaks. Unlike tea plantations, coffee plantations look like a forest. The green coffee pods were going to ripen in the next couple of months, and will be plucked.
Dinner at Udipi Sri Krishna Bhavan (8.00 pm)
We had already purchased some of the coffee for which Coorg is so famous. Now we stocked up on packets of spices - cinammon, black pepper, cardamom etc - to be given as gifts back home in Kolkata.
Dinner was at Piyush's favorite joint, the Udipi, which really served a mean dosa.
Tomorrow, we, in fact, leave for Udipi, travelling via Mangalore.
Photo credits: Panna Rashmi Ray
