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Udupi -> Murudeshwara -> Gokarna (21.11.24)

Sunrise drive at Udupi (6.00 am)
On some days, we need to start driving even before the sun rises. That's because we want to see sunrise from a particular place. We were at the east side of the backwater. Only if we crossed over to the strip of land and looked east, could we see the sunrise over the backwater (see map below if all this sounds like Bertie Wooster's conversation before his first cup of tea). Yesterday we had crossed by boat. Today we decided to take a long drive through the dark bylanes of Udupi, and over a bridge, which was pretty nice. And so was the sunrise.

Breakfast and drive out (8.00 am)
We would be doing around 200 km today, so we wanted to get going. The hotel had promised free breakfast, so we came back after our sunrise drive for some neer dosa (no kitchen in the hotel, so they swiggied it in - can you imagine the dedication?). We moved out around 8.30 am, onto NH66, which goes straight on to Mumbai via Goa. The tarmac looked new and our tires hissed happily along. Couple of hours down the road, we broke for a cup of coffee, since my eyes were getting a fixed look on the straight highways. The weather was warm and the sky clear.

Shri Murutheshwara Temple (11.00 am)
This was the third time Lord Shiva was summoning us, following Isha Foundation (Coimbatore) and Shri Vadakkumnathan temple (Thrissur). Shri M is famous for the 18 story gopuram, which is ascended by lift, and it shows off stunning views of beaches to both left and right. Quite a high tourist influx. We could see rows of buses parked on the beaches themselves. The second thing Shri M is famous for is the 123 ft statue of Shiva behind the temple. Very imposing, and a landmark from the sea as well.

Lunch and check-in at Gokarna (1.30 pm)
We reached Gokarna with hunger in our bellies. Our stay, imaginatively named "Seaside Beach Resort Homestay", was 200m into the sandy beach. We had to leave our car at the end of the road and hike it from there. Luckily at that point where we parked, there was a pretty decent restaurant, "Il Milo", and we staved off starvation by ordering a chiken club sandwich (Panna) and a falafel platter (I).

Our homestay with a generic name turned out to be a pretty neat and clean joint, and we were satisfied. With the sea right in front and crashing away like a playful husky, we were looking forward to an evening of building blissful sand castles.

Sunset and a beach dinner (6.00 pm)
Driving can be tiring, especially when you have just descended from the soothing climate of the hills. So both of us enjoyed forty winks (okay, sixty-five) till 5.00 pm, and then were down at the water's edge, kicking at waves. The sea at Gokarna is aggressive, but the water is clear, and the beach is truly endless.

Today was our last seaside appointment with the sun, and he did not disappoint, setting in royal slendour. We sat on our front porch and watched the play of colours on the water and sand, till the sky darkened like sleep.

Like our homestay, there were many facilities on the beach with restaurants attached. Barefeet, like a couple of beach bums, we wandered into a few, checking their menu cards, and finally settled on the next door "Coco Leaf Club", dining lightly off golden fried prawn and pizza, the latter being particularly lovely. We could also note that this place was favoured by foreign tourists.

Tomorrow, we leave for Badami. With that, we shall leave the western coast and start moving north-east on our long journey home.

Photo credits: Panna Rashmi Ray
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